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MyPiece·Reference·Glossary
Reference·Field guide

Jewellery Glossary

The terms you'll actually meet when buying, wearing, or inheriting a piece — defined in plain English, and linked to the deeper guides where there's more to know.

51 terms

A

AlloyMetals
A blend of a precious metal with others to add strength or change colour — pure gold and silver are too soft for most jewellery.
AssayMarks & trade
The testing of a metal to determine its precious-metal content. Hallmarks →
Assay officeMarks & trade
An independent body that tests precious metal and strikes its hallmark. Hallmarks →

B

BaroquePearls
An irregularly, often dramatically shaped pearl.
Base metalMetals
A non-precious metal such as copper, brass, or nickel, used as a core or in costume jewellery.
Bezel settingSettings & technique
A metal rim that surrounds and secures a stone — protective and modern-looking.
BirthstoneGemstones
A gemstone traditionally associated with a month of birth. Birthstones guide →
BlemishGemstones
A surface imperfection on a gemstone, such as a scratch or nick.
BrillianceDiamonds
The white light reflected back out of a diamond. The 4Cs →
Brilliant cutDiamonds
A faceting style — most famously the 57–58-facet round brilliant — designed to maximise brilliance.
Britannia silverMetals
A higher silver standard, 95.8% pure, marked 958 — softer and rarer than sterling. Hallmarks →

C

CabochonGemstones
A gem cut as a smooth, rounded dome rather than faceted — common for opals and star stones.
Carat (weight)Diamonds
A gem's weight: one carat is 0.20 grams, divided into 100 points. The 4Cs →
Channel settingSettings & technique
Stones set in a row within a channel of metal, with no prongs between them.
ClarityDiamonds
How few and faint a stone's inclusions and blemishes are, graded Flawless (FL) down to Included (I3). The 4Cs →
Colour (grade)Diamonds
How colourless a white diamond is, graded D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). The 4Cs →
Common Control Mark (CCM)Marks & trade
The international Convention hallmark — a set of balance scales — recognised across member states. Hallmarks →
CuletDiamonds
The tiny facet — or point — at the very bottom of a cut stone.
Cultured pearlPearls
A pearl grown by deliberately inserting a nucleus into a mollusc — most pearls sold today.
CutDiamonds
How well a stone is proportioned and faceted, which governs its sparkle. Not the same as its shape. The 4Cs →

F

FiligreeSettings & technique
Delicate openwork made from fine twisted wire.
FinenessMetals
Purity in parts per thousand (750 = 75%). The universal measure struck on a hallmark. Hallmark Calculator →
FireDiamonds
The flashes of rainbow colour a diamond disperses from white light. The 4Cs →

G

GirdleDiamonds
The thin band around the widest part of a stone, separating the crown from the pavilion.
Gold platingMetals
A thin layer of gold deposited (often electroplated) onto base metal; wears faster than gold-filled.
Gold-filledMetals
A thick layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal — far more durable than plating, with legal minimum thickness.

H

HallmarkMarks & trade
Official marks struck on precious metal certifying its fineness, its maker, and (where applicable) the assay office. Hallmarks →

I

InclusionGemstones
A natural feature trapped inside a gemstone as it formed.

K

Karat (gold)Metals
Gold purity in 24ths: 24K is pure, 18K is 18/24 (75%) gold. Not to be confused with carat, the gem weight. Hallmark Calculator →

L

Lab-grownGemstones
A gem grown in a laboratory with the same composition and properties as its natural counterpart; should be disclosed.
LustrePearls
The depth and sharpness of the reflections on a pearl's surface — the key to its quality.

M

MilgrainSettings & technique
A decorative border of tiny beads of metal along an edge.
Mohs scaleGemstones
A 1–10 ranking of a mineral's scratch-hardness — talc is 1, diamond is 10. A guide to how a stone wears.

N

NacrePearls
Mother-of-pearl — the iridescent substance a mollusc layers to form a pearl's surface.

P

PalladiumMetals
A light, naturally white platinum-group metal; hallmarked in the UK since 2010. Hallmarks →
PavéSettings & technique
Many small stones set closely together so the surface looks paved with gems.
PlatinumMetals
A dense, naturally white and hypoallergenic precious metal, usually used at 950 fineness. Hallmarks →
Precious vs semi-preciousGemstones
A traditional, loose split; 'precious' historically meant diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald.
Prong settingSettings & technique
Metal claws that grip a stone and let in the most light; also called a claw setting.

R

RepousséSettings & technique
Relief decoration hammered into metal from the reverse side.
Rhodium platingMetals
A bright, hard plating of a platinum-group metal, used to whiten and protect white gold.
Rose goldMetals
Gold alloyed with copper for a warm pink hue.

S

ScintillationDiamonds
The play of sparkle — light and dark flashes — as a stone or the light moves.
SolderSettings & technique
A metal alloy used to join parts of a piece; its presence widens the legal hallmark tolerance.
Sponsor's markMarks & trade
The registered mark identifying the maker or company that submitted a piece for hallmarking; also called a maker's mark. Hallmarks →
Sterling silverMetals
The standard silver alloy, 92.5% pure, marked 925. Hallmarks →

T

TableDiamonds
The large flat facet on the top of a cut stone.
The 4CsDiamonds
Cut, colour, clarity and carat — the four factors that set a diamond's quality, graded the same way worldwide. The 4Cs →
TreatmentGemstones
Any process — heat, oil, irradiation — that improves a gem's appearance. Reputable sellers disclose it.

V

VermeilMetals
Sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold (in the US, at least 10K and 2.5 microns).

W

White goldMetals
Gold alloyed with white metals (e.g. palladium or nickel) and usually rhodium-plated for whiteness.
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